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        <title>Friendship Hospital for Animals Message Boards</title>
        <description>We invite our clients to exchange pet stories, discuss pet health issues, and share their experiences with the hospital.&lt;P&gt;

PLEASE NOTE: We are NOT able to provide individual medical advice on these discussion boards. If you have a question about your pet's health, please call the hospital at 202-363-7300 to determine whether you need to schedule an appointment. The hospital is open 24 hours a day, every day.
&lt;P&gt;
&lt;B&gt;If this is a health emergency, or you're not sure whether it's an emergency, please telephone the hospital immediately at 202-363-7300.&lt;/B&gt;</description>
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        <lastBuildDate>Thu, 17 May 2012 18:38:21 -0500</lastBuildDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>http://friendshiphospital.com/forums/read.php?5,3,100#msg-100</guid>
            <title>Re: The Infinite Meal</title>
            <link>http://friendshiphospital.com/forums/read.php?5,3,100#msg-100</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Fabulous!  Spring is full of such great smells our dog and cat friends just have to love it!!!]]></description>
            <dc:creator>DrGlassman</dc:creator>
            <category>My Pet!</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 04 Apr 2010 14:31:46 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://friendshiphospital.com/forums/read.php?5,11,99#msg-99</guid>
            <title>Re: FHA Employee's Pets</title>
            <link>http://friendshiphospital.com/forums/read.php?5,11,99#msg-99</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Christina,<br />
<br />
Thanks for sharing your pets with us.  They are adorable.  See you at work!]]></description>
            <dc:creator>DrGlassman</dc:creator>
            <category>My Pet!</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 04 Apr 2010 14:26:58 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://friendshiphospital.com/forums/read.php?2,96,98#msg-98</guid>
            <title>Re: Long-haired cat getting poop stuck on the end of his tail...:(</title>
            <link>http://friendshiphospital.com/forums/read.php?2,96,98#msg-98</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I will consider changing the litterboxes ($$ is a bit of an issue), but I forgot to mention how small this Mr. Kitty is.<br />
<br />
Trekkie (1 yr) is small (could fit easily <i>inside</i> of a basketball), I don't have a scale but he's about 8 pounds; whereas my 2 other adult cats (2.5 yrs) are 12lbs+ and bigger-boned.  I don't think it's the size of the baby, I think it's just him not being self-aware.  I think he's just still learning how his tail works (?).<br />
<br />
I got an email response from Tech Ms. Hand and she recommended cleaning out all 3 of the litterboxes every day instead of every other.  So far (day 3), there have been no accidents (tail hair is of course still very short).  <br />
<br />
Thank you for responding also!]]></description>
            <dc:creator>notathsu</dc:creator>
            <category>Ask us about dog and cat health...</category>
            <pubDate>Fri, 05 Mar 2010 17:59:20 -0600</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://friendshiphospital.com/forums/read.php?2,96,97#msg-97</guid>
            <title>Re: Long-haired cat getting poop stuck on the end of his tail...:(</title>
            <link>http://friendshiphospital.com/forums/read.php?2,96,97#msg-97</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Hi-<br />
<br />
Dr. Hughes here from Friendship and that sounds like an unpleasant issue you have with your kitty.  Have you tried other types of litter boxes?  The Clever Cat box is fairly small, perhaps he doesn't have enough room to get his tail out of the way.  In addition an uncovered box may help too.  I recommend that you try one of the large plastic storage bins with the lid off.  This will give him plenty of room in every direction to defecate and hopefully he can get his tail out of the way.  <br />
<br />
Hope this helps!  Please let us know if you have any more questions.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>ahughes</dc:creator>
            <category>Ask us about dog and cat health...</category>
            <pubDate>Fri, 05 Mar 2010 08:20:37 -0600</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://friendshiphospital.com/forums/read.php?2,96,96#msg-96</guid>
            <title>Long-haired cat getting poop stuck on the end of his tail...:(</title>
            <link>http://friendshiphospital.com/forums/read.php?2,96,96#msg-96</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I've found blogs on poop getting stuck to the bum, but not the END of the TAIL.<br />
<br />
How odd is my cat?!?<br />
<br />
I need some feedback that is more inventive if at all possible.  We are a family of 3 cats and 2 humans.  The older "boys" are DSHs and do not have litter box issues and I thought would be better trainers for our 11 mo. old rescue kitten.  We have a litterbox/potty area that is enclosed in a unused closet with 3 CleverCat boxes (top entry).  I've tried new litters, but we will be sticking with clay litter.<br />
<br />
I have read in the blogs that I've previously searched, that I should shave a "potty patch" on Trekkie, but that isn't the problem area (as far as I see).  I did decide to do a version of a potty patch around his bum, and have kept that up for about a month now.  The problem persists.  It happens at LEAST once a week.  It's now happened twice in one week, and I've decided I need to post to see what anyone has to say.<br />
<br />
This morning I decided to clip his ENTIRE tail.  So the potty patch was extended to further down on his haunches, and I trimmed his tail all the way, base to tip.  He's terrible about the procedure.  It's absolute torture for him, on the scale with baths...maybe WORSE.  :(<br />
<br />
I need a solution that is a little more long term.  But I have to tell you, we're never getting a long-haired animal again.  :/]]></description>
            <dc:creator>notathsu</dc:creator>
            <category>Ask us about dog and cat health...</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 02 Mar 2010 10:53:42 -0600</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>http://friendshiphospital.com/forums/read.php?12,48,94#msg-94</guid>
            <title>Re: merging a new animal with other pets</title>
            <link>http://friendshiphospital.com/forums/read.php?12,48,94#msg-94</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Hi Darcy,<br />
 <br />
I'm sorry to hear you're still have trouble getting Rita settled into your home. <br />
<br />
It sounds like you'll need to start the introduction process over again. Sometimes with particularly shy or fearful kitties, it is necessary to repeat the introduction process and the separation period multiple times. <br />
<br />
We always recommend placing the new kitty in a "safe room" for at least 3-4 days before any introduction to the resident cats, however I'd recommend extending that to at least a week so Rita has time to fully settle in and de-stress before a re-introduction. <br />
<br />
During the separation period you can switch bedding and other items so the cats get used to each other's scent without meeting face-to-face. After several days of this, you can prop the door open about an inch so the cats and see each other without making contact. If there is no intense hissing at this point, you can allow the cats to interact for 10-15 minutes at a time several times a day. <br />
<br />
Do this until you are certain the cats are tolerating each other's presence. Some cat introductions can take several months, so be patient and go as slowly as necessary. <br />
<br />
Please feel free to contact the Washington Humane Society at <a href="mailto:&#97;&#115;&#107;&#116;&#104;&#101;&#116;&#114;&#97;&#105;&#110;&#101;&#114;&#64;&#119;&#97;&#115;&#104;&#104;&#117;&#109;&#97;&#110;&#101;&#46;&#111;&#114;&#103;">&#97;&#115;&#107;&#116;&#104;&#101;&#116;&#114;&#97;&#105;&#110;&#101;&#114;&#64;&#119;&#97;&#115;&#104;&#104;&#117;&#109;&#97;&#110;&#101;&#46;&#111;&#114;&#103;</a> or 202-723-5730, ext. 122 if you'd like additional advice from one of our behavior counselors. <br />
<br />
Best of luck to you and all your kitties!<br />
<br />
--Diana]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Diana Foley, Behavior &amp; Training Counselor, WHS</dc:creator>
            <category>Ask the Expert: WHS training counselor Diana Foley</category>
            <pubDate>Fri, 04 Dec 2009 08:59:31 -0600</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://friendshiphospital.com/forums/read.php?12,48,93#msg-93</guid>
            <title>Re: merging a new animal with other pets</title>
            <link>http://friendshiphospital.com/forums/read.php?12,48,93#msg-93</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Dear Diana,<br />
<br />
Thanks for the answer. The only problem is that Rita does go ape, and two of the other 3 respond in kind. She's gotten so that she can spend the whole day next to the third cat, but the others set her off, she sets them off, etc. So, indeed, she does cower under the bed when she is with the other cats.<br />
<br />
Her aggression is definitely from fear. But what do you do in cases of such extreme aggression?<br />
<br />
Thanks,<br />
<br />
Darcy]]></description>
            <dc:creator>darcytell</dc:creator>
            <category>Ask the Expert: WHS training counselor Diana Foley</category>
            <pubDate>Mon, 16 Nov 2009 08:43:54 -0600</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://friendshiphospital.com/forums/read.php?12,51,92#msg-92</guid>
            <title>Re: Bad relationship with some neighborhood dogs</title>
            <link>http://friendshiphospital.com/forums/read.php?12,51,92#msg-92</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ It’s difficult to diagnose the causes for aggressive behavior in this type of forum and there are many possible reasons for the behavior you’re seeing (fear, lack of socialization, early trauma, to name a few). <br />
<BR>If you find the behavior your dog is exhibiting to be a bit scary, I recommend seeking assistance from a professional trainer who can help the two of you sort out the severity of the problem and give you some techniques for improving your dog’s behavior. <br />
<BR><br />
Wishing you and your dog the best,<BR><br />
--Diana]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Diana Foley, Behavior &amp; Training Counselor, WHS</dc:creator>
            <category>Ask the Expert: WHS training counselor Diana Foley</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 12 Nov 2009 09:23:50 -0600</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://friendshiphospital.com/forums/read.php?12,50,91#msg-91</guid>
            <title>Re: Cat hates dog, dog chases cat.</title>
            <link>http://friendshiphospital.com/forums/read.php?12,50,91#msg-91</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ It sounds like your cat is not only fast and smart, but also lucky! <BR><br />
There are some things you can try to improve the relationship between these two, but unfortunately not all dogs can learn to get along with cats.  Your first priority should be the safety of your cat. He should have a sanctuary in the house where the dog does not have any access. <br />
 <BR>However, the dog and cat do need to interact with one another if there is a chance for your dog to view the cat as pack member rather than a fun thing to chase. You’ll need to be extremely diligent during these interactions and ensure that your dog is completely under control. He should be on a leash at all times when the cat is present. <br />
 <BR>Don’t force any interactions between the two; instead, allow the cat to remain at whatever distance from the dog he feels comfortable. <br />
 <BR>I also recommend eliminating squeaky toys from your household and any games that encourage your dog to chase. The dog is still new to your household and it may take many months for the two to work things out, but keep in mind that in some cases a dog may never be trusted around a cat and you’ll need to consider whether or not the two can safely share the same home. <br />
 <BR>Best of luck to you and your pets <BR><br />
--Diana]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Diana Foley, Behavior &amp; Training Counselor, WHS</dc:creator>
            <category>Ask the Expert: WHS training counselor Diana Foley</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 12 Nov 2009 09:21:53 -0600</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://friendshiphospital.com/forums/read.php?12,48,90#msg-90</guid>
            <title>Re: merging a new animal with other pets</title>
            <link>http://friendshiphospital.com/forums/read.php?12,48,90#msg-90</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Hi Darcy,<br />
<br />
Sometimes there is a tipping point wherein the necessity to establish hierarchy becomes apparent. Three cats was apparently a fine load for your house without "challenge".  Four may have put things in a bit of a see-saw position.<BR><br />
All is not lost! Assuming Rita is not tearing housemates to shreds and/or is not spending all her days under the bed, I am inclined to suggest that you give the cats some time and space to just "duke it out" and figure out their ranking in the cat pride. Within reason, of course; but a swat or a hiss or a pounce and even the occasional growl is no cause for real separation or alarm. It's how cats communicate and set boundaries.<BR><br />
You can also introduce a product called Feliway into the environment. Feliway acts as a natural peace-keeper and may just be the missing link to harmony in your household.<br />
<BR>Best of luck to you and your kitties!<br />
<BR>--Diana]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Diana Foley, Behavior &amp; Training Counselor, WHS</dc:creator>
            <category>Ask the Expert: WHS training counselor Diana Foley</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 12 Nov 2009 09:19:18 -0600</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://friendshiphospital.com/forums/read.php?12,52,89#msg-89</guid>
            <title>Re: (1) active single kitty &amp; nighttime behavior, (2) chewing electrical wires (3) biting in response to trigger spot</title>
            <link>http://friendshiphospital.com/forums/read.php?12,52,89#msg-89</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Mr. Magoo sounds like a gregarious housemate!  And you are doing an amazing job of parenting him and being a fun playmate, all at the same time; kudos to you. Let’s look at your various questions:<BR><br />
Despite your efforts to create scheduled playtime (perfect!), you are discovering the joys of owning a nocturnal creature.  For Mr. Magoo, 2:00am is the best time to think about playing.  He wonders why you don’t think so.  The best course of action is to completely ignore all attempts to engage you in play at that hour because any response from you is going to be interpreted as reinforcement for the behavior (“She’s awake!  YIPPEE!”, thinks Magoo). <BR><br />
Since he’s nipping, totally ignoring him could be near impossible, so I recommend a modified approach.  Keep a cat carrier by your bed and when he starts these antics, deftly, swiftly and silently swoop him into the carrier.  No squirting.  No admonition.  If he’s prone to whining in the carrier, then slide the carrier into the hall or another room.  A few nights of kitty time-out and he should get the hint. (feel free to have a little water dish available in the carrier – though it should not be necessary.  I would discourage having food available because he *may* see that as some reward).<BR><br />
 To protect him and your wires, if citrus infused wire covers are not appealing to you (and seem too appealing to him), then you can do an online search for: “wire loom”.  This may be the option that best protects your cords and your cat.<BR><br />
 Lastly, for the touch-aversion, all cats (and people) have varying levels of touch sensitivity.  Some hate having their feet touched.  Some can’t tolerate being brushed.  Once you rule out pain or discomfort I wouldn’t think too much about it and I would just recommend that when he is in that position you refrain from touching his shoulders.<BR><br />
 And I am one of those big fans of 2-cat households.  But you are right to consider your space limitations.  You sound like a very mindful pet owner.  Should your living space expand, and you find yourself ready to give Magoo a playmate, the Washington Humane Society team will be here to help you find that perfect mate.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Diana Foley, Behavior &amp; Training Counselor, WHS</dc:creator>
            <category>Ask the Expert: WHS training counselor Diana Foley</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 12 Nov 2009 09:15:24 -0600</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://friendshiphospital.com/forums/read.php?12,24,88#msg-88</guid>
            <title>Re: what is normal urinary retention for a 9 month old bichon pup at play</title>
            <link>http://friendshiphospital.com/forums/read.php?12,24,88#msg-88</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ She's from a reputable breeder, although we didn't bring her home until 16 weeks.  18 years ago we acquired our first bichon from the same breeder at 12 weeks and he was an absolute breeze to train.  (He did develop the habit of territorial marking a year later when we brought in a 6 year old female dominant bichon from the same breeder--she was a terrible marker).  We adopted a retired male bichon from this breeder at 5 years and he didn't need any housebreaking training and doesn't mark either.  <br />
<br />
We first brought this little girl home with a male about the same age.  By the time he went to a different home a month later, he wasn't having accidents and it didn't take long in his new home to adapt to their routine without accidents. So my experience so far with this breeder is wonderful temperaments & good health with the best housebreaking results occurring in the males.<br />
<br />
It does seem that this little girl is holding it a bit longer the past two weeks when she has free play outside (up to 90 minutes) and that does seem to coincide with an overall decrease in her activity level (doesn't have to constantly be chewing, running, chasing her toys, etc.).  She is the most active of any bichon we've had, the 2nd quickest intellectually(an aggressive puppy mill rescue was number one in the smarts dept), but also the most distractible.  That's a good idea to try reducing some of the available stimulation and see if she's able to hold it longer (and not make her own mischief!)  Thanks!]]></description>
            <dc:creator>themaxinamillion</dc:creator>
            <category>Ask the Expert: WHS training counselor Diana Foley</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 22 Sep 2009 12:22:49 -0500</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>http://friendshiphospital.com/forums/read.php?12,53,87#msg-87</guid>
            <title>Re: Senior Dog Behavior</title>
            <link>http://friendshiphospital.com/forums/read.php?12,53,87#msg-87</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Hi there,<br />
<br />
Initially, my thought would be to ask you if there have been any changes in your home, such as the addition of a new pet or someone moving out, which could suggest the possibility that your dog is marking. <br />
<br />
However, considering that Briah is 16 years old, I think it’s more likely that you’re dealing with a health issue.  <br />
<br />
It’s very possible that Briah has a medical condition causing her accidents, especially considering her history of UTI, or perhaps she is suffering from achiness or arthritis that make it challenging to get outside in time. <br />
<br />
She may even be a bit disoriented if she has just woken up from a nap. If you haven’t done so already, making an appointment with your veterinarian for a senior dog exam is in order. <br />
<br />
I wouldn’t bother correcting her or telling her “no” when she has these accidents because they may be something she can’t control. It sounds like you’re doing an excellent job of managing the problem by lining her bedding, using proper cleaning products, and watching for warning signs so you can be preventative, which is often the best we can do when dealing with our senior pets. <br />
<br />
Best of luck to you and Briah!<br />
<br />
-- Diana]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Diana Foley, Behavior &amp; Training Counselor, WHS</dc:creator>
            <category>Ask the Expert: WHS training counselor Diana Foley</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 22 Sep 2009 11:57:45 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://friendshiphospital.com/forums/read.php?12,35,86#msg-86</guid>
            <title>Re: crying kitties</title>
            <link>http://friendshiphospital.com/forums/read.php?12,35,86#msg-86</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ I had almost this same scenario.  Finally, I bought a food dispenser (for dry food), and now that I'm not the source of food, my cat no longer wakes me in the middle of the night.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>mertischek</dc:creator>
            <category>Ask the Expert: WHS training counselor Diana Foley</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 22 Sep 2009 11:40:36 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://friendshiphospital.com/forums/read.php?12,40,85#msg-85</guid>
            <title>Re: Cat tearing paper to bits</title>
            <link>http://friendshiphospital.com/forums/read.php?12,40,85#msg-85</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Hi Diana,<br />
<br />
I've tried a few different things to get her off the paper, but more often these days I just put her on the floor and put the paper away.  From what you wrote, I just need to be consistently doing that.<br />
<br />
Michelle]]></description>
            <dc:creator>mertischek</dc:creator>
            <category>Ask the Expert: WHS training counselor Diana Foley</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 22 Sep 2009 11:34:57 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://friendshiphospital.com/forums/read.php?12,46,84#msg-84</guid>
            <title>Re: stiff arming</title>
            <link>http://friendshiphospital.com/forums/read.php?12,46,84#msg-84</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ This is a great question and people tend to have strong opinions about whether this is a dominant gesture or an affectionate gesture. <br />
<br />
It’s actually more complex than simply one or the other, but either way, it is a social gesture and your dog is using physical contact as a means of communicating with you. <br />
<br />
Your dog may also be continuing to offer this behavior if you are rewarding it – if he likes being touched and putting a paw on you earns belly rubs, he’s likely to keep doing it. <br />
<br />
My own dog places her paw on my chest when I give her belly rubs. This is actually a very common behavior. If you and your dog have a good relationship (which it sounds like you do), the important thing to look for is that you’re both enjoying the physical contact.<br />
<br />
Best of luck to you and your Chocolate Lab!<br />
<br />
--Diana]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Diana Foley, Behavior &amp; Training Counselor, WHS</dc:creator>
            <category>Ask the Expert: WHS training counselor Diana Foley</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 22 Sep 2009 11:17:21 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://friendshiphospital.com/forums/read.php?12,44,83#msg-83</guid>
            <title>Re: Kitty Likes to Chew</title>
            <link>http://friendshiphospital.com/forums/read.php?12,44,83#msg-83</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Hi there,<br />
<br />
Destructive chewing by cats is undesirable, first, because of the potential danger to the cat, and second, because of damage to family valuables. Causes of destructive chewing by cats can range from teething in kittens to curiosity, to boredom. Kittens, like human babies, explore with their mouths, and these habits carry through to adulthood. <br />
<br />
For cord chewing you can run the cords through pvc-type tubing to protect them or you can slather them with something yucky, like Bitter Apple spray.  <br />
<br />
For papers and plastics the best approach is to keep all of those things safely tucked away.  Some plastic is made with corn starch to make it more biodegradable, and surprisingly, many cats have a taste for corn. <br />
<br />
Under no circumstances should you let her eat the plastic. It can become impacted in the intestines and cause a potentially fatal blockage.  In terms of her becoming more affectionate, she may just “be-who-she-is”.  Cats, like people, have varying comfort levels.  Some people are very open to hugs and touches; others prefer to keep folks at arms length.  Some cats just aren’t lap sitters or cuddlers, and never will be.  Best advice is to just keep loving her for who she is and enjoy!<br />
<br />
Good luck to you and lucky Tsuki!<br />
<br />
--Diana]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Diana Foley, Behavior &amp; Training Counselor, WHS</dc:creator>
            <category>Ask the Expert: WHS training counselor Diana Foley</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 22 Sep 2009 11:12:54 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://friendshiphospital.com/forums/read.php?12,43,82#msg-82</guid>
            <title>Re: Marking His Territory....everywhere!</title>
            <link>http://friendshiphospital.com/forums/read.php?12,43,82#msg-82</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Hi Marj,<br />
<br />
Based on the information you’ve given me, it does sound like Addis is marking, rather than having “accidents”. <br />
<br />
Limiting his space around the home as you mentioned you’re doing is a good start to deterring this behavior and I would take that even further. Since the marking has been going on for a year now, I recommend starting the house training process over again. This means limiting him to a crate or small room when he’s home alone and keeping him on a leash with you or directly supervised any time he has any freedom around the house.  Remove all opportunity for marking and reinforce going outdoors. By limiting his freedom, he will gradually learn to exist in your environment and will be more likely to view it as just that – your environment.<br />
<br />
Best of luck to you and Addis!<br />
<br />
--Diana]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Diana Foley, Behavior &amp; Training Counselor, WHS</dc:creator>
            <category>Ask the Expert: WHS training counselor Diana Foley</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 22 Sep 2009 11:10:45 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://friendshiphospital.com/forums/read.php?12,42,81#msg-81</guid>
            <title>Re: aggressive dog</title>
            <link>http://friendshiphospital.com/forums/read.php?12,42,81#msg-81</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Hi there,<br />
<br />
If your dog is 6 years old and you’ve never seen any previous aggressive tendencies, I wouldn’t be alarmed based on this one incident. I’d like to know a little more about exactly what happened, like:<ul><li>How did the Lab respond?<br />
<li>Did you have to separate the dogs or did they part on their own?<br />
<li>Have the dogs interacted with each other since this happened?<br />
<li>Have these two dogs ever been in the same situation before – interacting with a bone in possession?</ul>I suspect your dog was being possessive and trying to guard his bone, which may have been made even more valuable to him by the fact that he “stole” it. From your dog’s point of view, he could have been correcting the Lab for coming too close to his prized item. Keep in mind that ears are delicate and tend to tear easily and bleed a lot, so the bite may have appeared worse than it actually was. Health problems can also create changes in a dog’s behavior, so a vet check-up is a good idea.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Diana Foley, Behavior &amp; Training Counselor, WHS</dc:creator>
            <category>Ask the Expert: WHS training counselor Diana Foley</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 22 Sep 2009 11:09:14 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://friendshiphospital.com/forums/read.php?12,41,80#msg-80</guid>
            <title>Re: 6-year-old yellow lab has learned to bark, sometimes?</title>
            <link>http://friendshiphospital.com/forums/read.php?12,41,80#msg-80</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Hi there,<br />
<br />
Has anything happened that might have made your dog spooked? Have there been any changes in your household? It’s possible that something happened that has caused your dog to be more alert, or perhaps a change in your home environment has caused your dog to take on this new role of “answering” the door. There could be a lot of motivations behind this behavior and I would need more information to better answer your question. You may want to consult the trainer at the organization from which you got your dog, who knows your dog and is already familiar with his temperament and his training. In the meantime, you could try distracting him from this behavior by tossing some treats on the floor.  He may start to ignore the delivery man or the knock on the door and focus on eating his yummy treats.<br />
<br />
Best of luck to you both!<br />
<br />
--Diana]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Diana Foley, Behavior &amp; Training Counselor, WHS</dc:creator>
            <category>Ask the Expert: WHS training counselor Diana Foley</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 22 Sep 2009 11:06:56 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://friendshiphospital.com/forums/read.php?12,40,79#msg-79</guid>
            <title>Re: Cat tearing paper to bits</title>
            <link>http://friendshiphospital.com/forums/read.php?12,40,79#msg-79</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Hi there,<br />
<br />
When she tears the paper(s) does she get a response from you or anyone else in the house? Even a negative response is a response – and any response can reinforce a behavior. Did anything change around the house around the time this behavior started? Cats are creatures of habit and even small changes can throw them for a loop and produce a strange, new stress-related habit. I know it’s hard, but try to keep all paper items out of her reach. Many times if you can do that you can break the bad habit and revert back to your normal patterns.  And if it’s been a while, a good veterinary check-up may be in order.<br />
<br />
Best of luck to you both!<br />
<br />
--Diana]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Diana Foley, Behavior &amp; Training Counselor, WHS</dc:creator>
            <category>Ask the Expert: WHS training counselor Diana Foley</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 22 Sep 2009 11:06:00 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://friendshiphospital.com/forums/read.php?12,39,78#msg-78</guid>
            <title>Re: Lexi and George</title>
            <link>http://friendshiphospital.com/forums/read.php?12,39,78#msg-78</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Hi Naya & Denis,<br />
<br />
<b>LEXI:</b> Since you already know where Lexi has accidents, the next step would be determining when she’s having the accidents. Do they occur over night? During the day? When she’s home alone? Look for consistency in when she’s having the accidents so you can predict them and be preventative rather than reactive, which will allow you to eliminate the verbal corrections that make her nervous. <br />
<br />
As for Lexi’s shy behavior, the root of her timidity will be a factor in how much progress she can make overcoming it. Timidity can come from lack of socialization, a traumatic incident, genetics, or a combination of factors. Here are a few tips to help build her confidence:<ul><li>Give her an education. Teach her a new trick or behavior every week or take her to a group training class. Learning new things will help build her confidence and give her something to feel good about.<br />
<li>Take her to new places. Go for walks together in new neighborhoods or parks that you haven’t visited before. Start of in quiet places that she won’t find overwhelming and use lots of food to encourage her to explore.<br />
<li>Remember to be patient. Overcoming her shyness will be a lifelong endeavor, but this doesn’t mean you won’t see progress along the way.</ul><b>GEORGE:</b> Dogs like to explore, and although you’re taking George for walks and he gets exercise playing with Lexi, he may still need more stimulation. It can be hard for any of us to keep up with a 3-year-old Lab! The fence-jumping and coprophagy (stool eating) could both potentially be a result of George just looking for something to do. (There are quite a few theories about why dogs eat their own feces and boredom or habit is just one of the many possibilities.) Try giving George one or two of his daily meals in a Kong (<a href="http://www.kongcompany.com" rel="nofollow" >www.kongcompany.com</a>) or some other type of interactive toy, where he has to work to get the food out, either by chewing on it, tossing it up in the air, or bouncing it around. Most dogs find this to be great fun and some will spend an hour or more occupying themselves with the toy. If George enjoys the Kongs, you can try hiding them around your yard and teach him to hunt for them, maybe making your yard more interesting than what’s outside of it. <br />
<br />
Keep in mind that once a dog has learned that he can jump the fence, he is likely to continue doing it. For his safety, I recommended looking for ways to secure the fence. You can often find a fence-height extension kit at hardware stores.<br />
<br />
Best of luck to you, George and Lexi!<br />
<br />
--Diana]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Diana Foley, Behavior &amp; Training Counselor, WHS</dc:creator>
            <category>Ask the Expert: WHS training counselor Diana Foley</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 22 Sep 2009 11:03:16 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://friendshiphospital.com/forums/read.php?12,38,77#msg-77</guid>
            <title>Re: cat and dog question</title>
            <link>http://friendshiphospital.com/forums/read.php?12,38,77#msg-77</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ <i>(1) Why does cat stick his paw in water bowl 5-6 times before drinking?</i> <br />
<br />
To check for crocodiles! It’s hard to know, really. Some people seem to think that some cats cannot judge where the surface of the water is, so they tap the water – to feel it and maybe to create ripples so that they can better visualize the water.  Or it’s just fun!<br />
<br />
<i>(2) Why does dog circle 20 times before she poops?</i> <br />
<br />
If only dogs could talk, we’d know the answer to this one! There are a few different theories on this. One is that this behavior is attributed to territorial marking, similar to urine marking. Your dog may be checking out the area for the scent of other dogs that have visited the same spot, and determining precisely where she’d like to leave her “mark”.  Another possibility is that this activity is helpful in inducing the bowel movement.  <br />
<br />
--Diana]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Diana Foley, Behavior &amp; Training Counselor, WHS</dc:creator>
            <category>Ask the Expert: WHS training counselor Diana Foley</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 22 Sep 2009 10:59:22 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://friendshiphospital.com/forums/read.php?12,37,76#msg-76</guid>
            <title>Re: barking sheltie</title>
            <link>http://friendshiphospital.com/forums/read.php?12,37,76#msg-76</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Hi Leo,<br />
<br />
As a herding dog, your Sheltie is doing what she thinks is her job. <br />
<br />
Lucky for you, Shelties are an intelligent breed and are generally eager workers, so you can resolve this by giving her a new job to replace the barking and herding. <br />
<br />
A simple exercise to teach would be “watch me” where you teach her to look at you when there’s a knock on the door or a passing bus. But you can also be as creative as you like and have fun with this – teach her to carry the newspaper to your guests.  After all, she can’t bark and carry the newspaper at the same time!<br />
<br />
Good luck to you and your Sheltie!<br />
<br />
--Diana]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Diana Foley, Behavior &amp; Training Counselor, WHS</dc:creator>
            <category>Ask the Expert: WHS training counselor Diana Foley</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 22 Sep 2009 10:57:44 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://friendshiphospital.com/forums/read.php?12,36,75#msg-75</guid>
            <title>Re: Separation Anxiety in Cat</title>
            <link>http://friendshiphospital.com/forums/read.php?12,36,75#msg-75</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Hi there,<br />
<br />
Savannahs are commonly compared to dogs in their loyalty, and are known to follow their owners around the house like a dog might. They seem very bonded to their people and often greet with head-butts or pounce. Some Savannahs are reported as being very social and friendly with new people, and other cats and dogs, while others may run and hide or revert to hissing and growling when seeing a stranger. <br />
<br />
Your cat's behavior is not such that she needs to be trained to behave otherwise; she is just being her normal, Savannah self.  And it sounds to me like she is lonely and is craving some one-on-one time with you. <br />
<br />
When you are home with her I would encourage you to spend lots of time playing with her and stimulating her.  Savannahs are very intelligent and can be trained pretty easily.  She may even like the opportunity to walk on a leash!  Try getting some information on clicker training and together the two of you can bond over some newfound talents!<br />
<br />
Good luck to you and your Savannah kitty!<br />
<br />
--Diana]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Diana Foley, Behavior &amp; Training Counselor, WHS</dc:creator>
            <category>Ask the Expert: WHS training counselor Diana Foley</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 22 Sep 2009 10:56:30 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://friendshiphospital.com/forums/read.php?12,35,74#msg-74</guid>
            <title>Re: crying kitties</title>
            <link>http://friendshiphospital.com/forums/read.php?12,35,74#msg-74</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Hi there,<br />
<br />
A common complaint is that a cat pounces on the owner at five in the morning, meowing up a storm and generally being a pest. <br />
<br />
What do the owners do? They get up and feed the cat, play with him or let him outside. Kitty has learned that his behavior gets him exactly what he wants. <br />
<br />
Nighttime activities are the norm for nocturnal animals such as cats. Given the choice, a cat would sleep all day long and then at about eight or nine in the evening, she would get up, stretch, scratch, eliminate and go about the business of being a cat.  <br />
<br />
What needs to be done is to change your cat's working schedule from night-shift to day-shift. Rather than letting your cat snooze all evening while you are reading or watching TV, turn off the tube, get down on the floor and play with your cats. Try to tire them out early in the evening. This will greatly increase the likelihood that they will sleep at night.<br />
<br />
Best of luck to you and your two kitties!<br />
<br />
--Diana]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Diana Foley, Behavior &amp; Training Counselor, WHS</dc:creator>
            <category>Ask the Expert: WHS training counselor Diana Foley</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 22 Sep 2009 10:54:28 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://friendshiphospital.com/forums/read.php?12,34,73#msg-73</guid>
            <title>Re: Walking Cats</title>
            <link>http://friendshiphospital.com/forums/read.php?12,34,73#msg-73</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Hi there,<br />
<br />
Buy an appropriately sized harness and a small leash and head outside.  Those first few trips out should probably not be to walk, but just to sit in the grass and play and explore – keeping the leash nice and slack.  Keep the visits short and sweet and stress-free, and don’t expect much “walking”.  Over time, let your kitty take the lead – if she heads off to explore something, lightly hold the leash and follow.  With some time you could find yourselves prancing the sidewalks with the big dogs!<br />
<br />
Happy trails!<br />
<br />
--Diana]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Diana Foley, Behavior &amp; Training Counselor, WHS</dc:creator>
            <category>Ask the Expert: WHS training counselor Diana Foley</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 22 Sep 2009 10:52:20 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://friendshiphospital.com/forums/read.php?12,33,72#msg-72</guid>
            <title>Re: Hungry Kitty</title>
            <link>http://friendshiphospital.com/forums/read.php?12,33,72#msg-72</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Hi there,<br />
<br />
While many cats are deeply food-driven; food, likely has nothing to do with this behavior.  It sounds like it’s the hunt that your Bear craves.  Plus, he sounds whip-smart and high-energy.  <br />
<br />
At mealtime, try providing Bear with a complicated distraction.  One that is food-based might work best.  There are various toys on the market that involve hiding treats inside of them – a puzzle for kitty to solve!  Visit <a href="http://www.cattoys.com" rel="nofollow" >www.cattoys.com</a> and look for Cat Treat Toys.  There are quite a few options here to satisfy the hunter inside most Bears.<br />
<br />
Best of luck to you and Bear!<br />
<br />
--Diana]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Diana Foley, Behavior &amp; Training Counselor, WHS</dc:creator>
            <category>Ask the Expert: WHS training counselor Diana Foley</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 22 Sep 2009 10:47:14 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://friendshiphospital.com/forums/read.php?12,32,71#msg-71</guid>
            <title>Re: For Diana Foley</title>
            <link>http://friendshiphospital.com/forums/read.php?12,32,71#msg-71</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Hi Clarice,<br />
<br />
It sounds like your kitty’s litterbox misses have a very clear cause: the house cleaners scare her.<br />
<br />
Feliway* – the artificial feline pheromone – may help reduce the stress. Find out more about it in the longer article I wrote to help answer the many litterbox-related questions we received. (<a href="http://friendshiphospital.com/forums/read.php?12,54" rel="nofollow" >Click here</a> to view the longer article.)<br />
<br />
Another way to reduce some of the stress for your cat would be to keep her in a quiet room while the cleaner works. So your cat isn’t cooped up all day, perhaps the cleaner can let the cat out when he or she leaves for the day. <br />
<br />
Also, it may be that your cat feels too intimidated by the cleaner to make the trek all the way to the litterbox. So you might experiment with placing a second litterbox close to your cat’s favorite hiding spot, so she doesn’t have to travel so far to do her business.<br />
<br />
Good luck!<br />
<br />
--Diana<br />
<br />
*Editor's Note: Feliway can be purchased at Friendship, and also through <a href="http://www.myvetdirect.com/friendship/product_info.php?products_id=187" rel="nofollow" >Friendship's online store</a>.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Diana Foley, Behavior &amp; Training Counselor, WHS</dc:creator>
            <category>Ask the Expert: WHS training counselor Diana Foley</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 22 Sep 2009 10:45:46 -0500</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://friendshiphospital.com/forums/read.php?12,31,70#msg-70</guid>
            <title>Re: territorial pooch</title>
            <link>http://friendshiphospital.com/forums/read.php?12,31,70#msg-70</link>
            <description><![CDATA[ Hi Embarrassed Pooch Mother,<br />
<br />
You are certainly not the only one out there! In a pack environment, the leader and the high-ranking “officials” take on the role of protecting the home front – and it sounds as though your pup has made herself Chief of Security. <br />
<br />
It’s time for a demotion! Setting some new boundaries around the home, such limiting the number of toys she has, not allowing her on furniture, and limiting her space around the house when she’s home alone, can go a long way to help your dog view you as the Chief of Security, rather than the other way around. <br />
<br />
Don’t worry, if you love snuggling on the sofa together, these rules don’t have to last forever – just until you see an improvement in her behavior, then she can start earning those privileges back. In the meantime, you can give your dog a different job to do – each time she sees another dog passing by, use a tasty treat to lure her attention back to you, ask her to sit, and give her a steady stream of treats until the other dogs is far enough away that she loses interest. With repetition and practice, looking to you and sitting for treats can become her new default response to seeing another dog.  <br />
<br />
Best of luck to you!<br />
<br />
--Diana]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Diana Foley, Behavior &amp; Training Counselor, WHS</dc:creator>
            <category>Ask the Expert: WHS training counselor Diana Foley</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 22 Sep 2009 10:38:35 -0500</pubDate>
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